History was made at this year’s Michelin Guide California ceremony. Californios, a Mexican restaurant by Chef Val Cantú, was awarded Michelin’s highest honor on June 24, making it the first Mexican restaurant in the world to receive three Michelin stars. The Michelin Guide praised Californios, stating that the menu “draws upon a dizzying variety of Mexican flavors, utilizing the finest local products and subtle international influences to transform familiar dishes into deliciously unique culinary creations.” Michelin currently recognizes 340 restaurants across the country specializing in Mexican cuisine, yet Californios cemented itself as one of the absolute best restaurants in San Francisco early on.
Cantú first opened his restaurant in 2015 in the Mission District, where it quickly became known for its inventive interpretation of traditional Mexican flavors and ingredients. A round table of Michelin Guide inspectors praised Californios’ “exceptionalism, boldness, and distinct personality” from day one. It earned one Michelin star its very first year in business and became a two-star Michelin restaurant in 2018. It moved to its current home in the SoMa neighborhood in 2020 after closing due to the pandemic, and the Michelin inspectors noted that the setback didn’t seem to slow down Cantú one bit. One inspector noted, “Certainly, we could see the components for Three MICHELIN Stars. It was just a matter of time before they focused on offering a perfectly edited expression of the concept — not necessarily doing more, but doing less at the highest level.”
Beautiful, inspired dishes to try at Californios (and how to get a table)
Californios’ three Michelin-star rating is a testament to doing just that — executing mastery at every level. How Michelin Guide inspectors evaluate restaurants is a complex process, but they look for mastery and consistency in flavor and technique. The inspectors who visited Californios praised everything from the restaurant’s humble tortilla to its inspired caramelized plantain with caviar dish. One inspector said during the roundtable, “The one dish that I remember vividly was tres frijoles, a play on a three-bean dip with three different textures of beans, one of which was a whipped puree akin to refried beans. I remember thinking, ‘Why has no one done this before?'” Others had their own “aha” moments where they could see the writing on the wall for the three-star award, from the pork cheek carnitas to the blue masa tostada with Dungeness crab and smoked trout roe.
Popular dishes from everyday patrons include the sope, tostada, and rockfish tacos. Many reviewers rave over the atmosphere and superb hospitality, with some lucky diners reporting they were invited to tour the kitchen at the conclusion of their meal. While we can’t guarantee you’ll be able to snag a table anytime soon, you can book a reservation through OpenTable and try the world’s first Michelin three-star Mexican restaurant for yourself.
